“Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it.” – Norman Maclean

Longships gracefully navigating the picturesque rivers of Europe. Happy couples holding hands as together they climb the stairs to a storybook castle. People enjoying a glass of wine before dinner. All images that have filled our TV screen for years, tempting us to travel and explore. We wanted to be part of the scenes.

Viking had a trip leaving Passau, Germany, and cruising the Danube River, ending in Budapest, Hungary. There would be stops in Austrian cities of Linz, Melk, Durnstein, Krems, and Vienna; then on to Bratislava, Slovak Republic before ending in Budapest.

That sounded like the perfect trip, “But why not go early?” my wife asked. “It’ll give us a chance to explore and get comfortable.”

We decided to start in Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic since it wasn’t far from Passau (the start of our cruise).

Although we knew some of Bohemia’s recent history – oppressed people, living under Nazi dictatorship, then Communist rule, only ending in 1989, we didn’t know much about modern Prague. Three days exploring the “golden city of a thousand spires” before boarding our longship sounded like a beautiful start to our adventure.

December, with each town having its own Christmas traditions and individual open markets selling decorations, would be perfect. Perfect – except for the weather. December in Eastern Europe is grey with light rain and temperatures around freezing. The inclement weather didn’t seem to bother the Europeans, the streets were packed with people going about their daily lives. We didn’t see umbrellas, we saw hoods. Maybe there is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.

Taking a break from exploring every small shop in Prague, we warmed up with hot chocolate under the Astronomical Clock, ticking steadily since 1410 (over 600 years!). Then, we took a stroll on the pedestrian-only Charles Bridge (with its collection of love-locks) and finished the day with a meal in a converted centuries-old stable deep under Old Town Square.

The next day we hired Jirí Lukeš (aka George), an entrepreneurial “Praguer” who earns his living hosting food tours for groups of 6-8 people.

George helped us use the metro, buses, and trams – even shortcuts through alleys we wouldn’t use (or even know) on our own – all to speed us to each location. The result: a five-hour meal in four different restaurants spread all over Prague, ending with pastries and coffee on the other side of the river. Each venue packed with locals, where only rarely did a lost tourist stumble inside.

The third day we toured the 16th-century Lobkowicz Palace, (lost to both the Nazis and Communists before recently being returned to the family). We were treated to lunch in the family’s original living quarters, topped off with a private concert in the baroque concert hall.

The next morning we set off for our waiting longship in Passau. Boarding was efficient and once unpacked, we explored our new home. It’s nice to take your hotel with you when you travel, and Viking was the perfect host. Their basic price includes more than anyone could possibly do, plus we were offered optional tours, even able to strike off on our own. Or we could sit with a glass of wine and watch the scenery go by.

Viking showed us the historical landmarks including monasteries, synagogues, and mosques. We also enjoyed learning about the castles and vineyards, abbeys and universities, but what I remember most is the people.

Our first optional tour put us up close and personal in the “Sound of Music” Austrian countryside, expecting Maria von Trapp to join our small group, leading a chorus of Edelweiss.

Christa Seyr, who, along with her husband and children, operate a family bakery, looked the part of Maria, as she taught us the ancient art of baking.

After the final dusting of flour, we slid our loaves into the oven and traveled down the road to Mittendorfer Distillery for a hands-on lesson in schnapps.

One (maybe two) neat shots later, and with a sober driver, we returned to Christa’s to remove our freshly baked bread and build our own sandwiches with local meats and cheeses provided by neighbors who both contributed and joined us for lunch.

Soon we were in Vienna, Europe’s cultural capital and a city that is impossible not to love. Our guide, Giselle Vishnyakova-Anderl, was fantastic, even treating us to the best coffee in the world, in most likely the world’s smallest coffee shop. It’s walk-up only and hidden away in an alley for only the most local of locals to find. Then we entered the dance studio where Vienna’s debutants are required to prepare. Joyce and I practiced our waltz steps (with help from an instructor) as Giselle cheered us on.

The three of us had lunch at a local café, complete with a pastry case a mile long, then walked the calories off at the residence of the Hapsburgs in Schönbrunn Palace.

The evening highlight was the Vienna Residence Orchestra doing a shortened version of the Vienna New Year’s Day Concert. It’s a concert we would love to attend someday, but have only watched on PBS. Yet, now that we know Giselle, anything in Vienna is possible.

Our last stop before Budapest was in Bratislava where a young English speaking son interpreted for his Polish speaking mother as we learned about her communist upbringing compared to the world she knows today. The mother had been a seamstress, not because she wanted to make dresses, but because that’s what “The Party” wanted. She wanted to be a nurse, but there were enough nurses already (or so the Communist leaders had said).

There was only the two of us and one other couple. The conversation was incredibly open, maybe being in their own home and with so few people they felt free to speak. Our conversation, along with the food and drink, could have lasted all day, but it was time to go.

There is much more I want to share, but let’s save that for another time.

What about you? Have you done river cruises? Or other trips where your room travels along?

When you travel, do you spend your time at places or with people? What advantages and disadvantages are there to each?

This trip showed me how the American author, Norman Maclean, was right when he wrote, “Eventually, all things merge into one…” Where ever I travel, I find people being people. They may speak and dress differently, but we are all the same. Those we saw fishing from the banks of the Danube and Maclean in his beloved Montana were on waters, “…cut by the world’s great flood that runs over rocks from the basement of time.” Thank you, Mr. Maclean.

As always, the conversation starts here.

“In the ordinary choices of every day we begin to change the direction of our lives.”– Eknath Easwaran

Epilogue

We found our way to the crowded Old Town Square on Tuesday evening, along with what seemed like everyone else in Prague. The light rain and cold hadn’t kept anyone home.

Maybe it’s the shared hardships in severe weather that brings communities together.